an American in Pays de la Loire

An American in Pays de la Loire

Alias : assistant de langue

Today was another glorious morning of waking up around 11am, casually making coffee with that incredible French milk and sugar(why does it taste so better over here??). But let me first explain how my weekend was. I arrived on Thursday with my dear Charlotte and her mother. Initial remarks: the appointment with my bank overwhelmed me a bit, especially vocbaulary wise. I did learn the word for a wire transfer, but of course it went in and out of my ears with several other financial terms. I remember I have similar experiences with banks in America….I guess its just finance in general that provokes a rather pungent smell, and thus I find myself running the opposite way. Speaking of…have to go the bank again today. Ha.

But had a wonderful weekend of meeting people and discovering exactly how differ France and French culture really is. Point 1: the socialism. I went to the train station yesterday to buy a reduction card called the carte 12-25, which is a little godsend for us folk who find themselves itching to travel every other day. On the wall near the station, in graffiti, I saw the greatest images. On one wall was written, POUVOIR AUX TRAVAILLEURS (power to the workers), and on the other wall it say, BIENVENUE A LA TERRE ANTIFASCISTE (this last point, I would argue, is a little less true). With this facet, will come the amazing phenomena of strikes here in France. I have not, as yet, been affected by them, other than eagerly observing their civic engagement. However other former language assistants assure me that they can be one giant pain in the ass, especially when train workers are striking and you need to take a train to catch a flight. Alors, on verra! I have seen many posters around supporting the greve, and the parti de gauche, here in france. If you want to check out what they are all about, the website is www.partidegauche.fr

I was reading an article in the weekly magazine, le nouvel observateur, about the issue of changing the age of retirement. And the rhetoric was unbelievably about class conflict, les ouvriers (the working class), and not giving all the power to the upper classes. In other words, while in America we tend to avoid class conflict discourse, here in France, it is IMPOSSIBLE to avoid it.

Anyway, moving onto social interaction: Voila the plethora of people I have met: Other English assistants, mostly from the UK, a wonderful guy who lives in my apartment complex who came here from Sudan, and traveled to Egypt to get to France to work. He left in 2007 and has some pretty amazing stories. Then last night the other language assistants and myself met a group of guys in the French army!! One of the last things I expected to happen I would say. I had a very long conversation with one guy in particular about the respect for the army in France, and he admitted it was very minimal. He has been in for 3 years and has about 2 years left (signed a 5 year contract). Next time I see him I need to ask him about veterans benefits here, and how they compare to veteran benefits in America, as this is a very unfamiliar topic for me.

Hmmm what else this weekend? I went and saw a great film called Hors la loi, which was about one of the most fascinating historical events (in my eyes of course), the Algerian war of independence. It focused on three brothers, one of which was less willing to involve himself with the rise of the FLN resistance in France, and the other two who were essential leaders of the movement. It showed the violence surrounding both the French resistance to Algerian independence, as well as the reciprocal violence (and corruption) of the FLN. The FLN is still the major party in power in Algeria.

Anyway, my life of tranquility and happy discovery will be slights modified, as I begin working on Friday. Nonetheless I am very excited about meeting more people and seeing the little Frenchies to whom I will be teaching the so-called universal language of English. One of the guys in the army last night asked us why we learn other languages since we already know English. NOOOOO, I thought, do not succumb to this false consciousness of imperialism and US/Western hegemony. But instead, I insisted that other languages were crucial modes of communication with the diverse people and cultures of the world. To better understand the world, politics, religion, culture, etc. language is essential. With that being said, I need to add language colors to my paint pallet: next on the list, ARABIC. It’d be nice to fit Spanish in there somewhere as well…

Ok I’m off to do the morning rounds of email writing, errands to the bank, etc.

I am, though, trying to explore all facets of French culture, so tonight. I am attending a FASHION show here in Laval. I saw bits of one this past weekend, which was held outside. Of course, being in France, one has to learn a thing or two about fashion.

Oh by the way found some great news songs (mostly commercial techno, but what can I say, it is my materialist weakness coming out).

1.)    (I particularly love this title) We no speak Americano

2.)    Déjà vu, by Inna (I know she sounds like a techno princess, but I can’t help it! I love her!)

3.)    Gold by Antoine Clamaran (two thumbs up)

4.)    Ether Party by Delyno (more trance music, but nonetheless great)

a +

Life in France!! (about 2 weeks in!)

So I am officially moved into my apartment in Laval and am settling in.

Yesterday, I was able to witness and emerse myself in the great STRIKE(la greve!) over Sarkozy changing the retirement age. I tell you, the civic engagement of the French is catchy. I read in the newspaper today that millions of people took to the streets of France yesterday, essentially stopping life for the day to force everyone to focus on the issue of retirement, or les retraites. Between 3,000 and 4,000 ( in a city of around 50,000), took to the streets in Laval yesterday, and it was quite a sight.

I also have gotten a good look at the face of French bureacracy, but hey its not so bad. I had to open a bank account, which was much more difficult than in the US of course, but all is well. Tranfering money from my american account to my french one is kind of a pain, but on the bright side, I learned an entirely new set of vocabulary from this meeting--french financial terms! Basically I just need an attestation of everything--attestation de logement, de non-residence fiscal, de travail, etc. But so far people have been extremely helpful, especially my dear friend Charlotte(and her wonderful mother), who helped me move into my apartment, find a bank, and open the bank account. Oh where I would be without my friends...I know not.

backtracking a bit, I spent about three days in Paris when I arrived. There I saw all the classic monuments which shocked me into silent admiration. But a friend of mine also showed me the Jewish and Gay quarter, Montmatre--very bougie area-- plus some less bougie areas where there are larger immigrant population. The clash of the mode de vie was very apprents, and yet the joie de vivre seems to be similar throughout the unique worlds that one discovers in the universe of Paris. I was also led to the most amazing British bookstore called Shakespeare and Co. which had EVERYTHING in both french and english. It has this charming aura, with someone playing the piano inside, accompanied by the music of several languages--French, English, Spanish, etc. You name it, you see it and hear it in Paris. It's really one of the most cosmpolitan places I have ever visited. I also went out with a good friend of my American soulmate who I met in Algeria, miss liz. He took me out to see the eiffel tower sparkling, and to see some of the Paris nightlife. The best word that comes to mind to describe a night in Paris is, intoxicating. And not(or not just!) in the alcholic sense of the word.

Then I spent about a week with the most wonderful family in the world, chez mon amie Charlotte Persant, in le mans, which is about an hour outside of Paris by the TGV. It is a gorgeous old city of about 100,000-200,000 inhabitants, which has a huge and amazing cathedrale from the 11th-12th century. I was able to learn sooo much in a short amount of time about french politics thanks to my fellow political junkie--french version of me--Charlotte. I have learned to love and discuss the French Foreign Minister, Bernard Kochner, who helped begin medicines sans frontieres, and is a major facet of French socialism, in a very humanitarian fashion. He has traveled throughout Africa, to Bosnia, Afghanistan, etc.

I am becoming much more familiar with the Left in France, and the big names that comes to mind are of course, the socialist candidate in the last presidential election, Segolene Royal, and also her long-time partner Francois Hollands, who is a favorite to run for the social party against the increasingly unpopular Sarkozy, in the next elections. Another name is follow is Dominique Strauss-Kahn(I think thats the spelling), who is the current president of the IMF. Anyway, all important names and all potential rivals to Sarkozy. From speaking to people here, if he continues on his current path, the next election looks pretty grim. The French fascination, and for some, hatred, with the first lady, former model and current singer Carla Bruni, is a whole different topic which fascinates me as I hear a different opinion of her every time her name comes up in coversation.

Anyway, I have so much more to write, but because it has been awhile, I want to share a bit of news. I will write more about Laval, as well as my job here, as my job orientation approaches(next week oct 1, to be precise).

a bientot

Keep an eye on the Middle East peace talks...

While French politics is the key component of this blog, one cannot forget the significant initiation of peace  talks in Washington between Benjamin Netanyahu, the Israeli prime minister, and Mahmud Abbas, the president of the Palestinian Authority.

According to the Israeli foreign minister Avigdor Lieberman's, the talks are doomed to fail: "I do not believe that a comprehensive agreement with the Palestinians is possible within a year, nor even during the next generation," Lieberman is quoted as telling members of his ultra-nationalist Yisrael Beitenu party at a function in advance of Wednesday's Jewish new year. "Since the Oslo accords 17 years ago, important politicians have made multiple pledges and statements that nothing ever came of. "We have not examined in depth the reasons why we have paid such a high price for each accord with the Palestinians which has had no results."

http://english.aljazeera.net/news/middleeast/2010/09/20109685916466939.html

While both sides seem pessimistic, Helena Cobban discussed the need for a change of tactic, as described by  the American diplomatist Chas W. Freeman, Jr, who has called for European states to assume a greater role in the Israeli-Palestinian peace talks. Cobban describes Freeman's  arguements in her latest blog post: "At the core of this process should, he said, be an ultimatum that if the two parties can't reach a peace settlement within a year, the world's states would impose one: This would be either a call for recognition of a Palestinian state within all the Palestinian areas that lie beyond Israel's 1967 borders-- or, recognition of Israel's sovereignty over all of Mandate Palestine and a requirement that it grant equal rights to all who are governed by Israel."  Freeman also promotes including Hamas, in some compacity, in the peace talks.

http://www.justworldnews.org/


I think this is especially necessary, as conflict between Hamas in Gaza and the PA in the West Bank poses a challenge to Palestinian unity, and ultimately will be integral in the peace-talks with Israel.

"Xenophobes Unite!"

The Economist published a very ironic article a couple weeks ago entitled "Xenophobes Unite!" which documented the recent meeting of nationalist, far-right groups in Tokyo, in order to promote their version of "International nationalism" ??

http://www.economist.com/node/16791740?story_id=16791740&fsrc=rss

Among the great's of far-right politics who attended this conference was Bruno Gollnisch of France’s National Front. France's National Front Party has been dominate in the southern regions and cities of France, where many North Africans reside. The name that first comes to mind is the National Front's infamous and xenophobic Jean-Marie Le Pen, who has run for president five times, and even came in second in 2002,obtaining more votes than the main leftist candidate Lionel Jospin.

These right-wing knights who claim to guard the borders and cultural purity of France, tried to show their "soft" side at the conference in Tokyo. Bruno Gollnisch(National Front Party) explains how "persecuted" the nationalist parties feel.

"The main unifier is a sense of persecution. “We are facing the same enemies, using the same methods, for the same purpose, serving the same interests,” explains Bruno Gollnisch of France’s National Front."

Awwww. Is this supposed to make people feel sorry for the poor, defenseless nationalist parties who demonize both Muslims and sub-Saharan African immigrants in the European Union and beyond? (especially North African immigrants in France). REALLY?! YOU FEEL PERSECUTED?? You all are the ones promoting the fortress Europe approach and marginalizing Muslims, Sub-Saharan Africans, and(see my first post), Roma Gypsies. The list goes on of course.

Of course, America and especially certain states (cough cough Arizona), are hardly models for tolerance and protecting the rights of legal and illegal immigrants.

 And don't even get me started on the Tea Party. I talked to an old friend who has became a fan of Rand Paul and the Kentucky Tea Party movement a few times this summer, and we discussed the allegations of racism, libertian politics, Rand Paul and how he puts his foot in his mouth, etc. My argument was, okay, if a main leader of the Tea Party promotes signs stating "Obama=Indonesian Muslim turned welfare thug" then one can be fairly confident race and religion are playing roles in this movement. My old friend, who was nice enough when we played in the sandbox together when I lived in Kentucky from ages 3-7, responded with a bewildered, "how is that racially charged"?  sigh. 

STRIKES! civic engagement or just plain annoying?

"France is experiencing major disruption because of a nationwide strike against the government's austerity measures. About 50% of trains have been affected, flights disrupted and universities and schools closed in the 24-hour protest. "

Workers are apparently striking over the government raising the retirement age from 60 to 62, which seems a bit ridiculous. But, as the BBC article states, this is "a sizeable jump in a country that guards jealously its way of life." Furthermore, there are a plethora of reasons the other strikes occuring. For example some secondary school teachers went on strike because of a potential plan to cut 7,000 education jobs.

And yet, these strike really appear to cripple trains, flights, and daily life for so many.

"Fewer than half of all inter-city and local train services are expected to run on Tuesday, state railway company SNCF said. But Eurostar trains between France and London should be operating normally.

France's civil aviation authority said it had asked all airlines to cut Paris flights by a quarter. Air France said it would cut short- and medium-haul flights into and out of Paris by up to 90%, with long-haul flights remaining largely unaffected. " hmmm, so I may be in Paris for longer than expected...

anyway, this is the article to check out: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-11204528

another issue to learn more about and keep an eye on, is the power of France's largest union, the CGT.

The differences in American and French political culture(as depicted so well by the great Alexis de Tocqueville), seem to have only intensified. Just compare unions in France to the power of unions in the US. While unions reached the height of their power under FDR and into the 1950's, presidents like Reagan called their bluff and sent them packing(i.e. fired 12,000 workers) . See this informative article on the rise of union membership, and then its decline in the 1980's: http://www.baltimoresun.com/business/bal-bz.unions08jun08,0,1761456.story?page=1

I tend to view these strikes as a very vocal and visible form of civic engagement, but then again, once I live in France it might became more of an annoyance. On the question of civic engagement however, I wonder if we can imagine almost 1 million Americans going on strike in today's political atmosphere that reaks of partisanship within the political class and apathy in the general population(excluding Palin and Beck's "Tea Party" --which receives too much publicity for such a ridiculous group anyway) That's right, "France's largest union, the CGT, said it expected the turnout for the protest marches across the country to be stronger than during the strikes in June, when more than 800,000 people took part in demonstrations." I mean the protests during Vietnam, and even Iraq, were considerable, no doubt about it. But close to 1 million American striking about raising the age of retirement by two years, or even over unemployment issues? I just don't see it.

10 days till the great migration

Not officially in France yet but leaving soon, September 13th to be exact!! Then staying in Paris with my lovely friend Charlotte before arriving in my studio in Laval on September 24th!

However before I go, I wanted to note one area of French culture and politics that I believe everyone should keep a close eye on in the news.

First, how France has expelled some Roma Gypsies back to Romania.

"Dozens of Roma (Gypsies) have arrived back in Romania after being repatriated by France under a controversial policy backed by President Nicolas Sarkozy. Some 86 Roma left France and hundreds more will follow in the coming weeks after their camps were shut down.The French government says it is a "decent and humane" policy of removing people from deplorable conditions. But rights groups say the Roma are being demonised, and Romania has warned France against "xenophobic reactions".

Continue reading the main story


http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-11020429

Second, an issue with concerns the entire European Union, but most especially Italy, is the new buddy buddy relationship between Italy and Libya, in order to curb illegal immigration from sub-Saharan Africa in particular.  As always, Gaddafi is swaying back and forth between explosive and racist comments against sub-Saharan African immigrants, and occassionally demonstrating a sort of 'third-world' solidarity.

"Libyan leader Col Muammar Gaddafi says the EU should pay Libya at least 5bn euros (£4bn; $6.3bn) a year to stop illegal African immigration and avoid a "black Europe". Speaking on a visit to Italy, Col Gaddafi said Europe "could turn into Africa" as "there are millions of Africans who want to come in". Italy has drawn criticism for handing over to Libya migrants it intercepts at sea, without screening them first."

This is what happens when you start expelling illegal immigrants back to Libya, rather than their home countries.

Also, the UN Refugee agency was just expelled from Libya, just fyi.

Read more about the story here:


http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-11139345

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/10264625

Here is another video that reveals exactly how secretive these operations are, that is, how the EU has partnered with Libya and other North African countries to curb illegal immigration(but notably illegal sub-Saharan immigration).

see also the BBC special called "Europe or die trying"
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/8251376.stm

In conclusion, I look forward to following the immigration debate in France, as well as the role of France in Mediterranean negotiations, and I hope you all will too!